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The Shureimon gate of Shuri Castle in Naha, with two red-tiled roofs, the plaque with gold characters and red pillars among trees, under a blue sky
ccPhoto: 663highland · CC BY 2.5

Japan

Okinawa

Okinawa Honto: the Ryukyu kingdom at Shuri, the memory of 1945 in the south, the aquarium in the north, and the Kerama Islands 50 minutes away by boat

See the 4-day itineraryOpen Okinawa on the map

Days4–5
WhenApr · Oct–Nov
Per person/dayAverage 18,500 JPYMid-range · per person/day≈ R$ 603 · rate of Sep 24, 2026

Days I'd stay five days on the main island, and four is the minimum I'd defend.

How the guide reaches this number

One day goes to Shuri and central Naha; another to the south, with the museums and memorials of the Battle of Okinawa and Sefa Utaki; a boat day to the Kerama Islands; and a full day by car to the north, with the Churaumi Aquarium, the village of Bise, and Nakijin Castle. The fifth day comes down from the north by Cape Manzamo and the castles of Katsuren and Nakagusuku to the late afternoon in Chatan. I'd sleep in Naha, near a monorail station, for the first three nights, because Tomari Port, the airport, and the exits to the south are a few minutes away, and I'd spend the night of the north day in Motobu or on the Onna coast, so as not to retrace the road at night. For Yanbaru and Cape Hedo, I'd add a sixth day, with a second night in the north.

4–5

Start with the basic programme and choose extensions for the time you have.

When April, October, and November; the first half of May also works outside Golden Week, summer is the season for beaches and diving, with a chance of typhoons from June to September, and the rainy season usually runs from mid-May to the end of June.

How the guide reaches this number

The best months for combining castles, museums, road trips, and beaches are April, October, and November: days are warm, the sea is still good for swimming and diving for much of that time, and the risk of typhoons is lower than in summer, though October can still bring one. The first half of May also works, but Golden Week, the holiday from late April to early May, fills flights, hotels, and boats, and the rainy season usually starts in mid-May and runs to the end of June, with showers that rarely last all day. Summer, from June to September, is the season for beaches and diving, with an average temperature of 29.1 °C in July in Naha and the sea near 30 °C in August; it is also when typhoons are possible, which cancel boats and flights, and when the prefecture keeps up its warning about habu-kurage jellyfish, from June to September 30. Winter is mild, with a January average of 17.3 °C, north wind, and a rougher sea; it is the season for humpback whales in Kerama, from January to April, and for cherry blossoms, in late January and early February. Many beaches with lifeguards are out of season in these months.

Per person/day Budget around JPY8,250; mid-range around JPY18,500; comfortable around JPY33,500 per person per day, based on spending reported by travelers to Budget Your Trip (checked October 2026).

How the guide reaches this number

Indicative figures, excluding travel to the destination.

Budget around JPY8,250; mid-range around JPY18,500; comfortable around JPY33,500 per person per day, based on spending reported by travelers to Budget Your Trip (checked October 2026). Indicative figures, excluding travel to the destination.

Per person per day: accommodation, meals, urban transport, visits and a small allowance for extras. Flights excluded; larger purchases vary. Editorial estimate, not a quote.

Daily cost on the scale of the guide’s 205 cities

Salta · among the cheapestZermatt · among the priciest

Right in the middle of them. The tick marks the median. Compared by the middle of each city’s daily range, converted at the 24 Sept 2026 exchange rate.

What Nilo thinks
I'd recommend Okinawa to anyone who likes handmade ceramics, traditional music, and slow-cooked pork. At Obon, groups dance eisa through the streets to the sound of sanshin and hand drums to honor their ancestors, and in summer the kariyushi shirt, patterned like an aloha shirt, is fine even at the office. At the table, rafute, pork belly cooked in soy sauce and brown sugar, comes from the court kitchen, and zenzai of kintoki beans with shaved ice is a cold Okinawan sweet. Of the castles, if there were time for only one, I'd choose Nakagusuku: it suffered little damage in the war and shows, enclosure by enclosure, three different ways of setting stone, from natural blocks to pieces cut to fit. Katsuren asks for some stamina on the steep stairway and gives the view from the top in return. Anyone who likes karate will find more than 400 dojos on the main island, where the martial art was born.

Okinawa is recognized by its details before its landscapes: red-tiled roofs with a ceramic shisa on the edge, curved walls of coral limestone at the top of hills, market stalls with umibudo, the seaweed that pops in the mouth, and cuts of agu pork. In a little over 100 km, the main island holds the marks of a kingdom that traded with China and Southeast Asia, museums that tell the story of the war through the voices of survivors, and towns where the American presence left tacos, hamburgers, and live-music bars. In the kitchen, champuru means to mix and gives its name to a stir-fry of bitter melon with tofu; in the glass, awamori is distilled from Thai rice. And around it all lies a coral-reef sea, with white-sand beaches on the west coast and, less than an hour by boat from Naha, the Kerama Islands, where humpback whales spend the winter.

Quick facts

Population
308,884 residents in Naha and 1,466,024 in Okinawa Prefecture, prefectural estimates for September 1, 2026 (based on the 2020 Census).
Founded
No single founding. Shuri was the capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom from 1429 to 1879; Naha is the capital of Okinawa Prefecture, created in 1879.
Country and region
Japan, Okinawa Prefecture. The main island (Okinawa Honto) lies in the south of the Japanese archipelago, between the East China Sea and the Pacific Ocean.
Language
Japanese. Some older residents also speak Uchinaaguchi, the Okinawan language; in tourist areas, English menus are common, though not guaranteed everywhere.
Currency
Japanese yen (JPY).
Time zone
Asia/Tokyo: UTC+9, no daylight saving time.
Best time to go
April, October, and November; the first half of May also works outside Golden Week, summer is the season for beaches and diving, with a chance of typhoons from June to September, and the rainy season usually runs from mid-May to the end of June.
Average daily cost
Budget around JPY8,250; mid-range around JPY18,500; comfortable around JPY33,500 per person per day, based on spending reported by travelers to Budget Your Trip (checked October 2026). Indicative figures, excluding travel to the destination.

What’s new

Recent changes that affect the plan, with date and source.

  • Nov 2026

    Shuri Castle Park has announced the reopening of the Seiden, the main hall rebuilt after the 2019 fire, with interior visits by reserved time slot in 30-minute blocks and a new ticket for the paid area. Check the calendar and the price on the park's website. source

When to go

April, October, and November; the first half of May also works outside Golden Week, summer is the season for beaches and diving, with a chance of typhoons from June to September, and the rainy season usually runs from mid-May to the end of June.

10°20°30°yearly average 24°150300mmnownownownownownownownownownownownowJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec10°20°30°300JFMAMJJASOND
best timetemperature °Crain mmWMO 1991-2020 normals (NOAA NCEI), station Naha, 1 km away. Public domain.

April

19° to 24°C

161 mm of rain

Best time

12 h 47 min of daylight

National holidays

Apr 29 – May 5, 2027 · long weekend · Shōwa Day

Source: Nager.Date. Holiday dates shift; check close to your trip.

High, shoulder and low season

  • Shoulder · April, October, and November

    The recommended months for combining castles, museums, road trips, and beaches, with the sea still good for much of the time and less typhoon risk than in summer. The first half of May works the same, except during Golden Week, from late April to early May, when flights, hotels, and boats to Kerama fill up.

  • High · July to September

    Japanese school holidays and the beach and diving season, with the Churaumi Aquarium open later. Boats to Kerama require reservations, there is a chance of typhoons that cancel boats and flights, and the jellyfish warning applies until September 30.

  • Low · Mid-May to June

    Rainy season, with frequent showers that rarely last the whole day, and the start of the typhoon season and of the jellyfish warning. Good for museums and castles, with flexible plans for the sea.

  • Low · December to March

    Mild winter, with a January average of 17.3 °C and north wind. It is the season for humpback whales in Kerama and for the cherry trees of late January, but many beaches with lifeguards are out of season.

How the year changes

The best months for combining castles, museums, road trips, and beaches are April, October, and November: days are warm, the sea is still good for swimming and diving for much of that time, and the risk of typhoons is lower than in summer, though October can still bring one. The first half of May also works, but Golden Week, the holiday from late April to early May, fills flights, hotels, and boats, and the rainy season usually starts in mid-May and runs to the end of June, with showers that rarely last all day. Summer, from June to September, is the season for beaches and diving, with an average temperature of 29.1 °C in July in Naha and the sea near 30 °C in August; it is also when typhoons are possible, which cancel boats and flights, and when the prefecture keeps up its warning about habu-kurage jellyfish, from June to September 30. Winter is mild, with a January average of 17.3 °C, north wind, and a rougher sea; it is the season for humpback whales in Kerama, from January to April, and for cherry blossoms, in late January and early February. Many beaches with lifeguards are out of season in these months.

The same numbers as a table
MonthTemperature °CRain mm
January15 to 20102
February15 to 20115
March17 to 22143
April ·19 to 24161
May22 to 27245
June25 to 30284
July27 to 32188
August27 to 32240
September26 to 31275
October ·24 to 28179
November ·20 to 25119
December17 to 22110

Nilo's tips

A car in two stretches

The monorail covers Shuri and the center, and the 24-hour ticket costs 1,000 yen. I'd rent the car twice: one day for the south, returning it at night, and again on the return from the Kerama boat, in the late afternoon, for the two following days in the north and center. That way the car doesn't sit idle in Naha on the boat day, and the road to the north starts early, without the bus to the rental lot.

Seiden by appointment

The interior of the Seiden is sold in 30-minute blocks through the official website, and the rest of the paid area does not require a reservation. If any spots are left, the ticket office at the Kōfukumon gate sells up to 15 minutes before the time slot. Check on the website whether the hall is open on the date of your visit.

The right boat for Kerama

To go and return on the same day, I'd choose the morning high-speed boat, which leaves more hours on the island. The Queen Zamami leaves from the north side of Tomari Port, which has its own ticket office: go straight there, and not to the Tomarin terminal, a 10-minute walk away.

Aquarium at opening

I'd get to Churaumi at opening, at 8:30 a.m., to have the whole morning at the aquarium before continuing to Nakijin and Kouri, which are close by.

Explore the map

Explore the map, read about the other places and plan your travel days in the app.

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What to see

Leave for last, if time allows: Naminoue Shrine · Okinawa World · Mihama American Village · Zakimi Castle

The entrance of the Himeyuri Peace Museum, with stone pillars at the gate and the building with a reddish tiled roof behind.
Himeyuri Peace Museum

Himeyuri Peace Museum

EssentialItoman · One to two hoursCheck tickets and reservations

It tells the story of the students and teachers of a girls' school who were mobilized as nurses in the military hospitals set up in caves in the south, where many of them died. It has signage in English and video testimonies from survivors with subtitles. It is open from 9 a.m. to 5:25 p.m., with last entry at 5 p.m., and is about a 10-minute bus ride from the Peace Memorial Park.

Check access

Wide view of the Peace Memorial Park, with a dark clock tower in a round plaza, flower beds, lawns and a domed memorial in the distance.
Okinawa Peace Memorial Park

Okinawa Peace Memorial Park

EssentialItoman · Half a day or moreCheck tickets and reservations

A park in Mabuni, Itoman, at the far south of the island, where the battle ended. It holds the Cornerstone of Peace, with 242,659 names of the dead of all nationalities as of June 2026, the Peace Hall, and the Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum, which explains the battle and the reconstruction. The museum is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with last entry at 4:30 p.m., closes from December 29 to January 3, and the adult ticket costs 300 yen.

Check access

A large limestone block with stalactites at its base and ferns on top, surrounded by forest, at one of the natural altars of Sefa Utaki.
Sefa Utaki

Sefa Utaki

EssentialNanjo · One to two hours · Late afternoonCheck tickets and reservations

The most sacred of the utaki, the places of worship of the kingdom, on Cape Chinen in Nanjo: a stone path between forest and rocks leads to natural altars formed by large blocks of limestone. In the time of the kingdom, men from outside the royal family could not enter, and those of the royal family entered dressed as women; the ceremonies were led by priestesses. The island of Kudaka, to the east at sea, is revered as the place where the creator deity of the islands descended. The adult ticket (ages 16 and over) costs 600 yen and is sold only at the Nanjo regional products center, until 5:15 p.m. from March to October and until 4:45 p.m. from November to February. The Sanguui area, the triangular tunnel between two rocks, is closed to visitors, and the site closes six days a year, on lunar calendar dates published on the official website. It is a World Heritage site.

Check access

Sefa Utaki closed (lunar calendar days): 9 – 11 November 2026 (checked Oct 2026) source

The aquarium's large blue tank, with two whale sharks, rays and schools of fish, and the silhouettes of visitors in front of the glass.
Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium

Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium

EssentialMotobu · Half a day or more · In the morningCheck tickets and reservations

The aquarium of the Ocean Expo Park, in Motobu, is known for the Kuroshio tank, 7,500 cubic meters, with whale sharks and manta rays seen through a large acrylic window. In the low season it is open from 8:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., with last entry at 5:30 p.m., and stays open later during holiday periods. The adult ticket costs 2,180 yen. From Naha Airport, next to the center, it is about 2 hours by car on the expressway, or 3 hours by express bus, and the park's parking is free.

Check access

The three chambers of the Tamaudun mausoleum, in darkened limestone, with stone roofs and steps in front of a courtyard of pale gravel.
Tamaudun

Tamaudun

Worth a visitNaha · Up to half an hourCheck tickets and reservations

Mausoleum of the kings of the second Sho dynasty, built in 1501 and carved into limestone rock with a tiled roof, a few minutes' walk from the castle. It has three chambers: one for the purification of remains, another for kings and queens, and the third for the rest of the royal family. Damaged in the war and restored in 1977, it is a World Heritage site and a National Treasure. The stele in the courtyard is considered the oldest inscription in kana, the Japanese syllabic script.

Check access

An arched stone bridge over the pond of Shikinaen garden, with the red-roofed pavilion behind among trees.
Shikinaen

Shikinaen

Worth a visitNaha · One to two hoursCheck tickets and reservations

A garden and recreational villa of the royal family, built in 1799 to receive envoys from China. The pond with an arched bridge in Chinese style, the hexagonal pavilion, and the red-tiled house show how the kingdom blended Japanese and Chinese references. Restored between 1975 and 1996 from prewar photographs, it is about 30 minutes by bus from the Naha terminal and is part of the World Heritage site.

Check access

The stone-paved Kinjo-cho slope descending between stone walls, with a red-tiled roof on the left and the city behind.
Kinjo-cho Ishidatami-michi

Kinjo-cho Ishidatami-michi

Worth a visitNaha · Up to half an hour

A slope paved with Ryukyu limestone, built in the 16th century as part of the road from Shuri to the port of Naha. About 300 meters survived the war, between stone walls and red-roofed houses. It is steep and can be slippery when wet.

Check access

Kokusai-dori on a sunny day, with souvenir shops under colorful signs, palm trees on the sidewalk and buildings along the street.
Kokusai-dori

Kokusai-dori

Worth a visitNaha · One to two hours · At night

Naha's main street, 1.6 km of shops, cafés, and bars and the stage for the city's big parades. The interest lies more in the covered arcades and lanes that branch off it, with kariyushi shirt shops and small restaurants, than in the row of souvenirs on the main road.

Check access

More places in the guide

Makishi Public Market

Worth a visitCentro de Naha (Kokusai-dori, Makishi e Tsuboya) · Up to half an hour

A market of fishmongers, butchers, and grocers near Kokusai-dori, born in the postwar years, with space to eat local dishes. It is the place to see what goes into Okinawan cooking: reef fish, cuts of pork, and seaweed such as umibudo.

Tsuboya Yachimun Street

Worth a visitCentro de Naha (Kokusai-dori, Makishi e Tsuboya) · One to two hours

The street of potteries in the kingdom's old ceramics center, next to the market. Several workshops belong to families with generations of potters, and the Tsuboya Pottery Museum explains the tradition of yachimun, as Okinawan pottery is called.

Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum

Worth a visitOmoromachi · One to two hoursCheck tickets and reservations

In Omoromachi, about a 10-minute walk from the monorail station, the prefectural museum presents the nature, history, and culture of Okinawa, from the kingdom to the postwar period, and the art museum, in the same building, the art of the island. It is the best indoor alternative in Naha on a rainy day and good context before the castles. It closes on Mondays (or the next business day if Monday is a holiday) and from December 29 to January 3; it is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., until 8 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, with last entry half an hour before. When checked in October 2026, the museum's permanent exhibition cost 530 yen and the art museum's collection 400 yen.

Former Underground Naval Headquarters

Worth a visitSul (Tomigusuku, Itoman e Nanjo) · One to two hours · In the morningCheck tickets and reservations

A 450-meter tunnel complex dug into a hill in Tomigusuku, about 4 km south of central Naha, which served as the headquarters of the Japanese Navy in the Battle of Okinawa. A small museum has some signage in English. It is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., with the ticket office open until 4:30 p.m.; check the ticket price on the official website.

Nakagusuku Castle

Worth a visitUruma e Nakagusuku · One to two hoursCheck tickets and reservations

Ruins of a six-enclosure castle on a hill facing the Pacific, built in phases with three different masonry techniques. It suffered little damage in the war, and you can follow the evolution of the walls from the main enclosure outward. It is about 50 minutes by bus from Naha, plus a 30-minute walk from the stop. World Heritage site.

Katsuren Castle

Worth a visitUruma e Nakagusuku · One to two hoursCheck tickets and reservations

Ruins at the top of a 98-meter limestone hill in Uruma, with stepped walls that recall the prow of a stone ship. It was the seat of Amawari, destroyed in 1458. The stairway to the top is steep and can be slippery. By bus, it is about 1 hour 40 minutes from the Naha terminal. World Heritage site.

Cape Manzamo

Worth a visitYomitan e costa de Onna · Up to half an hourCheck tickets and reservations

A 20-meter limestone cliff above the sea, on the Onna coast, with a visitor center. The cliff area charges a small entrance fee and closes in the early evening, at a time that changes with the season; check before going. It sits beside Route 58, on the way between the north and the center of the island.

Bise Fukugi Tree Road

Worth a visitPenínsula de Motobu · Up to half an hour

Streets of the village of Bise, next to the Ocean Expo Park, shaded by rows of fukugi, an evergreen tree used as a windbreak, among houses of old architecture. You can explore on foot or by bicycle.

Nakijin Castle

Worth a visitPenínsula de Motobu · One to two hours · Late afternoonCheck tickets and reservations

Seat of the Hokuzan kingdom and the second-largest castle on the island after Shuri, surrounded by 1.5 km of undulating walls of Paleozoic limestone, uncut stones stacked dry, without mortar. The cherry trees bloom in late January and early February, when there is a festival. Guided visits are offered in Japanese, English, and Spanish. World Heritage site.

Kouri Island

Worth a visitPenínsula de Motobu · Up to half an hour · Late afternoon

A small island linked to the Motobu Peninsula by bridges across Yagaji Island, with a beach and a heart-shaped rock formation that gives the island its nickname, the island of love. It makes a good end to the day in the north, near the lodging in Motobu and on the way to the Onna coast.

Naminoue Shrine

If there is timeCentro de Naha (Kokusai-dori, Makishi e Tsuboya) · Up to half an hour · Late afternoon

A Shinto shrine on a cliff above Naminoue Beach, Naha's only swimming beach, which has a jellyfish net and lifeguards. It works as an end-of-afternoon pause for those in the center, not as a beach destination.

Okinawa World

If there is timeSul (Tomigusuku, Itoman e Nanjo) · One to two hoursCheck tickets and reservations

A theme park in Nanjo that gives access to the 5 km Gyokusendo Cave, of which 890 meters are open to visitors, with stalactites and stalagmites. It is an indoor alternative in the south for a rainy day.

Mihama American Village

If there is timeChatan e Koza · One to two hours · Late afternoon

A complex of shops, bars, restaurants, a cinema, and a bowling alley with colorful facades in Chatan, linked to Depot Island and the Sunset Walk promenade. It shows the mix of Okinawa and the American presence and works as an end-of-afternoon stop, not as an attraction of its own.

Zakimi Castle

If there is timeYomitan e costa de Onna · Up to half an hour

15th-century ruins on a hill in Yomitan, with curved walls that jut outward and are considered the best-preserved example of a gusuku's defenses. Entry is free, there is a museum next door, and on a clear day the Kerama Islands appear on the horizon. World Heritage site.

Nilo’s itinerary

Start with the basic programme and choose extensions for the time you have.

Plan my days in the app ↗
  1. Day 1 · Shuri and central Naha

    1. Take the monorail to Shuri station and walk about 15 minutes to Shuri Castle Park; the paid area opens at 8:30 a.m. If you arrive a little early, you can watch the opening ceremony in front of the Houshinmon gate.

    2. Allow about two hours for the gates and the exhibits. The interior of the rebuilt Seiden is visited by reserved time slot: check on the park's website whether it is open on the date of your visit and buy the time slot beforehand.

    3. Walk to the Tamaudun mausoleum, a few minutes from the castle, and go down the Kinjo-cho Ishidatami-michi stone slope.

    4. Go back by taxi or bus to the monorail and get off at Makishi station. Have lunch at the Makishi Public Market.

    5. In the afternoon, walk Tsuboya Yachimun Street and the pottery workshops, with the Tsuboya Pottery Museum for those who want context.

    6. At the end of the day, stroll Kokusai-dori and the covered arcades that branch off it, and have dinner at an izakaya on the side streets. Sleep in Naha.

  2. Day 2 · The south: the memory of 1945 and Sefa Utaki

    1. Pick up the rental car early and start at 9 a.m. at the Former Underground Naval Headquarters, in Tomigusuku, about 4 km south of central Naha. One hour is enough for the tunnels and the museum.

    2. Continue to Itoman and visit the Himeyuri Peace Museum, with time for the video testimonies.

    3. Go on to the Okinawa Peace Memorial Park, in Mabuni, and allow about two hours for the Cornerstone of Peace and the prefectural museum, whose last entry is at 4:30 p.m. Have lunch in the area.

    4. Cross to Nanjo by 4 p.m. and walk Sefa Utaki. The ticket is sold only at the Nanjo regional products center, until 5:15 p.m. from March to October and until 4:45 p.m. from November to February; check beforehand that the date is not one of the closing days.

    5. Return to Naha along the east coast, drop off the car, and sleep in Naha. Without a car, do only one of the two blocks (Itoman or Sefa Utaki) by bus from the Naha terminal.

  3. Day 3 · Kerama Islands (Zamami and Aka)

    Day trip

    1. The islands of Keramashoto National Park are about 50 minutes by high-speed boat from Tomari Port in Naha, or 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours by ferry. In October 2026, the high-speed boat cost 3,950 yen one way and 7,510 round trip (adult), and the ferry 2,900 and 5,510, plus a 100-yen entry fee for the island. Schedules change by day and by month: consult the monthly timetable on the Zamami village website and book, because during summer holidays and long holiday weekends there may be no seats. On Zamami, which covers 6.7 km², Furuzamami Beach is more than 800 meters long and there is a local bus to the beaches; from January to April, there are tours to see humpback whales. Bad weather cancels the boats. On the way back, anyone heading north the next day can pick up the rental car in the late afternoon.

  4. Day 4 · The north: Churaumi, Bise, and Nakijin

    1. With the car picked up the night before, on the return from the Kerama boat, leave Naha around 6:30 a.m. on the Okinawa Expressway to Nago and continue to the Ocean Expo Park: from Naha Airport, next to the center, it is about 2 hours. The Churaumi Aquarium opens at 8:30 a.m.

    2. Allow two to three hours for the aquarium and the Kuroshio tank. Park in the north lot (P7), the closest to the entrance.

    3. Walk or rent a bicycle in the neighboring village of Bise and go along the fukugi streets. Have lunch of Okinawa soba or fish on the peninsula.

    4. In the afternoon, visit the ruins of Nakijin Castle, a few minutes by car, and walk along the walls.

    5. Cross the bridges to Kouri Island for the end of the afternoon, already close to your lodging.

    6. Sleep on the Motobu Peninsula or the Onna coast, so you don't drive the road back at night and can start the next day already in the center of the island.

If you stay longer

  1. Day 5 · Manzamo, castles of the center, and late afternoon in Chatan

    1. Head down Route 58 to Cape Manzamo, in Onna, to see the cliff in the morning light.

    2. Cross the island to the ruins of Katsuren Castle, in Uruma, and climb the stairway to the top in sturdy footwear.

    3. If there is time, cross the road to the islands of Uruma, such as Henza and Hamahiga, and have a seafood lunch there.

    4. In the afternoon, visit the ruins of Nakagusuku Castle and walk through the enclosures from the main one outward to see how the masonry changes.

    5. At the end of the afternoon, go on to Chatan, walk through the Mihama American Village, and watch the sunset on the Sunset Walk promenade.

    6. Return to Naha, about 40 minutes from Chatan to the airport, and drop off the car. If you stay one more night, you can have dinner first on Gate 2 Street, in Koza, where the bars have live music.

Plan my days in the app ↗

Food

Okinawa soba

Wheat-flour noodles, not buckwheat like the soba in the rest of Japan, served in a broth with pork. Each island and each household has its variation; soki soba comes with spare ribs. Okinawa Soba Day is October 17.

Goya champuru

A stir-fry of goya, the bitter melon, with tofu and vegetables, often with canned pork. Champuru means to mix, and the name applies to several stir-fries of home cooking.

Rafute

Pork belly with the skin on, cooked slowly in soy sauce and brown sugar. It began as a dish of the Ryukyu royal kitchen.

Ashi tibichi

Pig's trotters simmered slowly with kombu seaweed and daikon radish, a dish of popular cooking.

Agu pork

A pig breed introduced to the kingdom from China and raised on the islands for more than 600 years, with marbled meat. The most common way to try it is in shabu-shabu, thin slices cooked in a light broth.

Umibudo

Seaweed in tiny beads, called sea grapes, that pop in the mouth. It is eaten raw, in salads or over rice with seafood; Onna is one of the main producing regions.

Taco rice

Rice topped with seasoned ground meat, cheese, lettuce, and tomato. It originated in the 1980s in Kin, near the American base of Camp Hansen, and is now on menus across the island.

Pork and egg onigiri

A rice ball wrapped in seaweed with a slice of processed pork and a fried egg. Sold in specialty shops and convenience stores.

Sata andagi

A fried ball of sugar, flour, and egg, crisp outside and moist inside, also in brown sugar and purple sweet potato versions.

Okinawan zenzai

Kintoki beans cooked with sugar, served cold with rice-flour dumplings and shaved ice.

Awamori

A spirit distilled from Thai rice fermented with black koji mold, the oldest distilled spirit in Japan. The kind aged three years or more is called kusu; locals usually drink it with ice and water.

Orion beer

Okinawa's beer, made in Nago, where the brewery welcomes visitors. It is in almost every restaurant and shop.

Buku-buku cha

Roasted-rice tea mixed with green or jasmine tea, whisked in a wooden bowl until it forms a tall foam and topped with ground peanuts. Served to Chinese envoys in the time of the kingdom, it is rare today and found in Shuri.

Where to eat

  • Makishi Public Market (Naha)

    Fishmongers, butchers, and grocers with space to eat Okinawan dishes. Good for a lunch that shows the ingredients of the island, such as reef fish, cuts of pork, and umibudo.

  • Side streets of Kokusai-dori and Sakurazaka (Naha)

    Izakaya with goya champuru, rafute, and awamori, plus yakitori places in narrow lanes. Sakurazaka is an area of bars and restaurants welcoming to an LGBTQ+ public.

  • Shuri

    Shops and an awamori distillery, where you learn about the spirit and buy a bottle, and a café that serves buku-buku cha, the rice tea whisked into foam.

  • Omoromachi

    Pricier restaurants of various cuisines near the station; a good area to look for agu pork in shabu-shabu or yakiniku of Okinawan beef.

  • Monorail between Kenchomae and Miebashi (central Naha)

    Restaurants and small craft breweries along the line, for a local beer after Kokusai-dori.

  • Chatan (Sunabe and the Miyagi coast)

    Cafés facing the sea and places for sandwiches, hamburgers, tacos, and burritos, the American legacy at the table, with restaurants at Chatan Fisharina for the sunset.

  • Kin

    The town where taco rice was created in the 1980s, near Camp Hansen, for a pause on the way between the center and the north.

  • Motobu Peninsula

    Okinawa soba and fish. Motobu is one of the centers of bonito fishing, eaten as sashimi or tataki from late March to October, and has its own brand of beef.

· 2026-10-19

Day trips

Kerama Islands (Zamami and Aka)

The islands of Keramashoto National Park are about 50 minutes by high-speed boat from Tomari Port in Naha, or 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours by ferry. In October 2026, the high-speed boat cost 3,950 yen one way and 7,510 round trip (adult), and the ferry 2,900 and 5,510, plus a 100-yen entry fee for the island. Schedules change by day and by month: consult the monthly timetable on the Zamami village website and book, because during summer holidays and long holiday weekends there may be no seats. On Zamami, which covers 6.7 km², Furuzamami Beach is more than 800 meters long and there is a local bus to the beaches; from January to April, there are tours to see humpback whales. Bad weather cancels the boats. On the way back, anyone heading north the next day can pick up the rental car in the late afternoon.

Yanbaru and Cape Hedo

The forested north of the island is about 2 hours 30 minutes by car from Naha on the expressway, and the trip pays off more when leaving from a base in Nago or Motobu. Cape Hedo is the northernmost point of the island; Hiji Falls, at 25.7 meters, is the tallest on the main island and is reached by a trail in the forest; the mangroves of Gesashi Bay have boardwalks and canoe tours. On the east coast road, drive slowly: the Okinawa rail, a flightless bird, crosses the road. Public transportation is scarce.

Where to begin

Shuri and central Naha

Shuri and central Naha

Take the monorail to Shuri station and walk about 15 minutes to Shuri Castle Park; the paid area opens at 8:30 a.m. If you arrive a little early, you can watch the opening ceremony in front of the Houshinmon gate.

The south: the memory of 1945 and Sefa Utaki

The south: the memory of 1945 and Sefa Utaki

Pick up the rental car early and start at 9 a.m. at the Former Underground Naval Headquarters, in Tomigusuku, about 4 km south of central Naha. One hour is enough for the tunnels and the museum.

The north: Churaumi, Bise, and Nakijin

The north: Churaumi, Bise, and Nakijin

With the car picked up the night before, on the return from the Kerama boat, leave Naha around 6:30 a.m. on the Okinawa Expressway to Nago and continue to the Ocean Expo Park: from Naha Airport, next to the center, it is about 2 hours. The Churaumi Aquarium opens at 8:30 a.m.

Manzamo, castles of the center, and late afternoon in Chatan

Manzamo, castles of the center, and late afternoon in Chatan

Head down Route 58 to Cape Manzamo, in Onna, to see the cliff in the morning light.

Money

A large limestone block with stalactites at its base and ferns on top, surrounded by forest, at one of the natural altars of Sefa Utaki.
Sefa Utaki

The currency is the yen. Cards are accepted in hotels, malls, and chains, but carry cash for market stalls, small restaurants, and buses, which charge in cash or with the OKICA card. Some prices for guidance (checked in October 2026, adult): the Churaumi Aquarium costs 2,180 yen; Sefa Utaki, 600 yen; the Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum, 300 yen. The paid area of Shuri Castle has a new price announced by the park for the visit to the rebuilt Seiden; check the day's price on the website. On the monorail, the fare from the airport to Shuri is 360 yen and the 24-hour ticket is 1,000. For Zamami and Aka, the high-speed boat costs 3,950 yen one way and 7,510 round trip, and the ferry 2,900 and 5,510, plus a 100-yen entry fee for the village of Zamami per adult visitor. The cost of a full day depends heavily on the rental car and the lodging; the average daily cost in the fact sheet summarizes the spending reported by travelers.

Getting there and around

Naha Airport (OKA) receives domestic flights from all over Japan and international flights from cities in Asia, and is a few kilometers from the center. The Yui Rail monorail leaves from the airport and has 19 stations up to Tedako-Uranishi, 37 minutes away. From the airport, the adult fare is 290 yen to Kenchomae (13 minutes), 320 to Makishi (16 minutes), and 360 to Shuri (27 minutes). The 24-hour (1,000 yen) and 48-hour (1,800 yen) QR tickets are valid from the time of purchase. The monorail accepts the OKICA card and IC cards from other regions of Japan, such as Suica.

Outside the monorail, buses leave from the Naha terminal for almost the whole island, but departures are far apart away from the capital, with waits that can reach two hours. Payment is in cash or with OKICA; check with the company whether other IC cards are accepted on the line. Express buses link the airport to Nago and the Motobu Peninsula, such as lines 111 and 117 and the Yanbaru Express; to the Churaumi Aquarium, it takes about 3 hours.

A rental car is the most practical way to see the south, the center, and the north. The rental agencies are outside the airport, and a company bus takes you to the lot, which can take half an hour. Traffic drives on the left, speed limits are usually between 40 and 60 km/h, and the south of the island gets congested. The Okinawa Expressway (57.3 km, toll) links Naha to Nago faster than Route 58. Anyone driving in Japan with a foreign license generally needs the international driving permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, issued before the trip; some nationalities use an official translation instead. Check the rule for your country before booking.

For the Kerama Islands, boats leave from Tomari Port in Naha. The Queen Zamami high-speed boat departs from the north side of the port, which has its own ticket office next to the boarding area, and reaches Zamami in about 50 minutes; the Ferry Zamami leaves from the south side, next to the Tomarin terminal, and takes 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours. Reservations by phone open one month ahead and run until the day before, with no reservations on the day itself, and online they open 55 days ahead; the fare is paid on the day, at the ticket office, with the reservation number. A car ferry also links Naha port to Motobu in about 2 hours.

Safety

Okinawa has the risks of a destination of sea and road more than those of a city. From June to September 30, the prefecture keeps up a warning for the habu-kurage, a box jellyfish with strong venom: swim inside the nets, at beaches with lifeguards, cover your skin, and carry vinegar, which is the recommended first aid, without rubbing the affected area and seeking medical attention. Typhoons can pass from June to September, and still in October; when they arrive, boats to Kerama and flights are canceled, sometimes for more than a day, so leave slack at the end of the trip. On the road, traffic drives on the left and tolerance for alcohol is zero. In an emergency at sea, call 118, the number of the Japan Coast Guard. In the south, the trails at Sefa Utaki and the stairway at Katsuren Castle get slippery in the rain.

Before you go

Plug
types A and B
Voltage
100 V
Driving side
on the left
Emergency
Fire 119 · Police 110the source does not list the ambulance number: check it before you go
Country code
+81
Official language
Japanese
Currency
yen (JPY)

Source: Wikidata (CC0), checked September 2026.

Etiquette tips

Utaki are places of worship

At Sefa Utaki and the other utaki, the rocks and stones themselves are sacred: do not climb them, damage them, or take anything. Respect the closed areas, such as Sanguui.

Awamori with ice and water

The local custom is to drink awamori with ice and water. At izakaya, ask which one is aged (kusu).

Alcohol and driving

In Japan, tolerance is zero: any amount of alcohol in the blood is enough for a drunk-driving charge. If you plan to drink awamori at dinner, leave the car.

Swim where there is a net

At beaches with lifeguards, swimming is allowed inside the marked area and with a jellyfish net. In high seas, jellyfish can pass over the net.

Mistakes to avoid

Estimating road time from the distance on the map: with limits of 40 to 60 km/h and traffic in the south, short trips take a while, and the return to the airport needs slack.

Forgetting that the car rental agencies are outside Naha Airport. The bus to the lot can take half an hour on arrival and another half hour on return.

Arriving in Japan without the international driving permit required for your license. It is issued in your own country, before the trip, and not at the rental counter.

Counting on frequent buses outside Naha. In the north, the wait between two departures can reach two hours, and an itinerary with several stops in the same day does not work.

Leaving the boat to Kerama for the day itself: the village of Zamami accepts reservations only until the day before, and during summer holidays and long holiday weekends those who arrive without one may not get on board.

Swimming outside the protective nets between June and September, when the prefecture keeps up its habu-kurage warning, for a box jellyfish with strong venom.

Useful phrases

はいさい / はいたい (haisai / haitai)

Hello, in Uchinaaguchi; haisai is the form for men and haitai the form for women.

にふぇーでーびる (nifee deebiru)

Thank you very much, in Uchinaaguchi.

ありがとうございます (arigatō gozaimasu)

Thank you very much, in Japanese.

すみません (sumimasen)

Excuse me; sorry.

これをください (kore o kudasai)

I'd like this one, please.

沖縄そばをください (Okinawa soba o kudasai)

One Okinawa soba, please.

お会計お願いします (okaikei onegaishimasu)

The check, please.

英語のメニューはありますか (eigo no menyū wa arimasu ka)

Do you have an English menu?

Where to stay

  • Central Naha (Kokusai-dori and Makishi) · Those arriving without a car, who do Shuri and the center on foot and by monorail and go to Kerama by boat.: It is where most of the island's lodging is concentrated, from hostels to hotels, near the Kenchomae, Miebashi, and Makishi stations and near Tomari Port. The drawback is the bar streets, which are lively at night; anyone renting a car needs to check whether the hotel has parking, and the days in the north begin with traffic in the south of the island.
  • Omoromachi · Those who prefer a district of malls and restaurants and want to stay on the monorail.: It is around the Omoromachi monorail station, with shopping malls, pricier restaurants, and the prefectural museum a few minutes away. It has less of the feel of the old lanes, and to get to the market and Tsuboya you need to take the monorail.
  • Chatan (Mihama and Sunabe) · Those traveling by car who want to split the trip between the south and the north, with restaurants and sunset nearby.: Naha, Yomitan, and the Onna coast are less than an hour away by car, and the airport about 40 minutes. The resort hotels are in Mihama, and guesthouses and hostels in Sunabe. Without a car, it depends on buses, and Tomari Port, for Kerama, requires an early start.
  • Onna coast · Those who want a beach hotel, whether just for the night of the north day or for more days by the sea.: It is the island's main resort strip, with beaches with lifeguards and Cape Manzamo; the airport is about 1 hour by car. It is an area of luxury hotels; the more affordable options are farther along Route 58. For the Kerama boat, which leaves Naha early, and for the south, it is too far: leave those days for the nights in Naha.
  • Motobu Peninsula · Those who want to reach Churaumi, Nakijin, and Yanbaru early without facing the road from Naha.: It has resort hotels, guesthouses, and vacation rentals near the aquarium and the islands of Kouri and Sesoko. It is about 90 minutes by car from Naha, and buses on the peninsula are rare, so it only makes sense with a car, as the night of the north day or as a base for Yanbaru.

· 2026-10-19

Districts

Kokusai-dori on a sunny day, with souvenir shops under colorful signs, palm trees on the sidewalk and buildings along the street.
Kokusai-dori

Central Naha (Kokusai-dori, Makishi, and Tsuboya)

The commercial axis of the capital: the 1.6 km of Kokusai-dori, the covered arcades that branch off it, the Makishi Public Market, and the Tsuboya potteries, served by the Kenchomae, Miebashi, and Makishi monorail stations. It suits those arriving without a car who want restaurants and nightlife on foot.

The three chambers of the Tamaudun mausoleum, in darkened limestone, with stone roofs and steps in front of a courtyard of pale gravel.
Tamaudun

Shuri

The old capital of the kingdom, now a district of Naha on a hill east of the center: the castle park, the Tamaudun mausoleum, the stone slope of Kinjo-cho, and awamori shops and a distillery. It has its own monorail station and little lodging.

The large white, stepped building of the prefectural museum, with low trees in front of it and a lawn in the foreground.
Okinawa Prefectural Museum & Art Museum

Omoromachi

A district of Naha north of the center, around the Omoromachi monorail station, with shopping malls, pricier restaurants, and the Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum.

A large limestone block with stalactites at its base and ferns on top, surrounded by forest, at one of the natural altars of Sefa Utaki.
Sefa Utaki

South (Tomigusuku, Itoman, and Nanjo)

The south of the island: in Tomigusuku, just south of Naha, the old underground naval headquarters; in Itoman and Nanjo, sugarcane fields, the memorials and museums of the Battle of Okinawa, the sacred site of Sefa Utaki, limestone caves, and beaches such as Mibaru and Azama Sun Sun. It works best by car.

Uruma and Nakagusuku

The hills of the center-east, with the ruins of the Nakagusuku and Katsuren castles and, in Uruma, small islands linked by road, such as Henza, Miyagi, and Hamahiga.

The red and white Ferris wheel of Mihama American Village behind colorful shop buildings, seen from across an intersection.
Mihama American Village

Chatan and Koza

The center, marked by the American presence: in Chatan, the Mihama American Village, the sunset promenade, and seaside cafés in Sunabe; in Koza (Okinawa City), Gate 2 Street beside Kadena Air Base, with bars and live music, and the island's biggest eisa festival.

The limestone cliff of Cape Manzamo, with an arch opened in the rock and a grass-covered top, above the blue sea with waves breaking at its base.
Cape Manzamo

Yomitan and the Onna coast

Yomitan has more than 50 potters and the ruins of Zakimi Castle; the Onna coast, from Yomitan to Nago, is the island's main resort strip, with Cape Manzamo and beaches with lifeguards.

The stone wall of Nakijin Castle winding along the slope, enclosing a grassy area with loose stones, with forest behind.
Nakijin Castle

Motobu Peninsula

The northwest of the island: the Ocean Expo Park with the Churaumi Aquarium, the village of Bise and its fukugi trees, Nakijin Castle, and the islands of Kouri and Sesoko, linked by bridges. It is about 90 minutes by car from Naha.

Yanbaru

The forested north, a UNESCO Natural Heritage site since 2021: Cape Hedo, Hiji Falls, mangroves, and the Okinawa rail, a flightless bird found only there. It calls for a car and a day of its own.

History

14th c. · Three kingdoms on one island

Hokuzan in the north, Chuzan in the center, and Nanzan in the south contested the main island. Nakijin Castle, on the Motobu Peninsula, was the seat of the king of Hokuzan.

1429 · Sho Hashi founds the Ryukyu Kingdom

The king of Chuzan, who had taken Nakijin in 1416, unified the island and made Shuri the capital. Shuri Castle would be the political, diplomatic, and cultural center of the kingdom for about 450 years.

1458 · The fall of Katsuren

Amawari, lord of Katsuren Castle, rebelled against the Shuri throne and died when the castle was destroyed. Some chronicles treat him as a traitor; others, as a wise ruler.

1501 · Tamaudun

King Sho Shin built the mausoleum of the second Sho dynasty, which ruled until 1879, as a symbol of central power over the islands.

1609 · The Satsuma invasion

The Satsuma domain, in southern Japan, invaded the kingdom and took control of it, while keeping the tribute relationship with China that allowed the kingdom to trade with it.

1799 · Shikinaen

The kingdom built the garden and villa of Shikinaen, where it received the Chinese envoys who confirmed each new king.

1879 · End of the kingdom

Japan annexed Ryukyu and created Okinawa Prefecture, with its capital at Naha.

1945 · The Battle of Okinawa

American troops landed on April 1, and the battle ended in June. More than 200,000 combatants and civilians died; Shuri and Naha were almost entirely destroyed.

1945–1972 · American administration

The islands remained under United States control until their return to Japan in 1972. The American military bases stayed, and living alongside them shaped towns such as Koza.

1975 · Expo 75

Motobu hosted the international exposition on the theme of the ocean. The Ocean Expo Park, home of the Churaumi Aquarium, is its legacy.

2000 · World Heritage

The Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu, including Shuri, Tamaudun, Shikinaen, Sefa Utaki, and four castles, were added to the UNESCO list. In 2021, the north of the island, Yanbaru, was inscribed as natural heritage.

2019 · The Shuri fire

In October 2019, a fire destroyed the Seiden and other buildings of the castle, which had been reconstructed in 1992. The Seiden was rebuilt again.

Complete history

Before it was Japanese, the main island of Okinawa was the heart of a kingdom. In the 14th century, three kingdoms shared the island, each with its stone castles, the gusuku. In 1429, Sho Hashi unified the territory and set up the capital at Shuri, on a hill above the port of Naha. The Ryukyu Kingdom lived on trade: it sent tribute to China, traded with Japan, Korea, and Southeast Asia, and brought back from these contacts the Thai rice for awamori, the pig, an architecture that blends Chinese and Japanese techniques, and a court cuisine served to foreign envoys.

From 1609, the kingdom also answered to the Satsuma domain in southern Japan, without ceasing to send tribute to China. In 1879, the Meiji government abolished the kingdom and created Okinawa Prefecture. The castles visited today, from Nakijin to Katsuren, are ruins from that period before the annexation. Shuri and Shikinaen were rebuilt from photographs, drawings, and the recollections of people who knew the buildings before the war, and Tamaudun was restored.

The Battle of Okinawa, from April to June 1945, is the reason for those reconstructions. More than 200,000 people died, soldiers on both sides and civilians, many of them sheltering in caves in the south of the island. The Cornerstone of Peace, in the Peace Memorial Park in Itoman, engraves the names of the dead without distinguishing nationality: there were 242,659 as of June 2026. After the war, the islands spent 27 years under United States administration and returned to Japan in 1972, with the American military bases kept in the center of the island.

Okinawa's economy came to depend more and more on tourism, which found its attractions in the legacy of the kingdom, the beaches, and the sea around the Kerama Islands. In 2019, the fire at Shuri Castle destroyed the main hall again, and the Seiden was rebuilt once more, from the same drawings and records used for the 1992 work.

Geography and shape of the city

Okinawa Honto is more than 100 km from north to south and narrow, between the East China Sea to the west and the Pacific Ocean to the east. The south, where Naha and Shuri are, is the most populated part: coral limestone hills, caves used as shelters in 1945, and sugarcane fields between Itoman and Nanjo. The center holds towns such as Okinawa City (Koza) and Chatan, American military bases such as Kadena, and the castles of Nakagusuku and Katsuren on the hills. From Yomitan, the west coast becomes a strip of resorts in Onna that runs to Nago, where the Motobu Peninsula begins, with the Churaumi Aquarium and islands linked by bridges. Farther north lies Yanbaru, a name that means mountains of dense forest: subtropical woodland, mangroves, and Cape Hedo, protected in a national park. Route 58 runs along the west coast from Naha to the far north, and the Okinawa Expressway, 57.3 km long, links Naha to Nago through the interior. The climate is humid subtropical: in Naha, the January average is 17.3 °C and the July average is 29.1 °C (1991–2020 normals), and the sea ranges from about 21 °C in February to nearly 30 °C in August. West of Naha, the Kerama Islands form a national park of reefs and clear water.

Culture

Okinawan culture comes from a kingdom that lived on exchange, and the word champuru, to mix, is used to describe both a stir-fry and the city of Koza, where more than 75 years of living alongside Kadena Air Base produced bars with rock, blues, and folk music on the same street. The sanshin, a three-stringed instrument, accompanies traditional songs and eisa, the dance with hand drums that groups perform at Obon, the period honoring ancestors; the Okinawa Zento Eisa Matsuri, in Koza, is the biggest festival of this dance.

Okinawa is the birthplace of karate, with more than 400 dojos on the main island and a Karate Day on October 25. The crafts of the kingdom are still alive: bingata, fabric dyed in strong colors; yachimun pottery, from Tsuboya and the Yomitan potters' village; Ryukyu glass; and kariyushi shirts, similar to aloha shirts, worn in summer even at work and on formal occasions. On roofs and gates, the shisa, a lion-dog of ceramic, guards the houses.

The memory of the war is part of public life. The museums in the south hold testimonies from survivors, and the Cornerstone of Peace keeps receiving names: 95 were added in 2026. Uchinaaguchi, the Okinawan language, is spoken mostly by older people, but words from it appear in the names of dishes such as sata andagi, which means fried sugar.

Festivals and events

Cherry blossom season

From late January to early February, Okinawa's cherry trees, the first in Japan to bloom, have festivals in places such as Nakijin Castle and Motobu.

Naha Hari

Okinawa's biggest dragon boat regatta, at Naha's new port, during the holiday at the start of May, with 14.5-meter boats, music, and fireworks. The hari pray for a good harvest and safety at sea. In 2026, it ran from May 3 to 5.

Okinawa Zento Eisa Matsuri

Three days of eisa at Koza Sports Park, in Okinawa City, at the end of summer, with groups from across the island, the communal kachashi dance, and fireworks. In 2026, it ran from September 4 to 6.

Naha Great Tug-of-War

A tug-of-war with a 200-meter, 43-ton rope of rice straw, pulled by thousands of people at the Kumoji intersection on Route 58, after a parade on Kokusai-dori. It takes place in October; in 2026, from October 10 to 12.

Karate Day

On October 25, demonstrations at dojos and events across the island celebrate the martial art born in Okinawa.

Shuri Castle Festival

In autumn, the castle park hosts a parade, ceremonies, and traditional performances; the program is published each year on the website of the park and of the tourism board.

Books and films

Hacksaw Ridge (2016)

A film by Mel Gibson about Desmond Doss, a US Army medic who refused to carry weapons and saved wounded men during the Battle of Okinawa. It shows the battle from the American point of view; the museums in the south complete the picture with the experience of civilians.

With the Old Breed, by Eugene Sledge (1981)

Memoirs of an American Marine who fought at Peleliu and Okinawa, written from notes kept during the fighting. It helps explain why the south of the island was left devastated.

Shima Uta, The Boom

A song with sanshin and electric guitar that became an informal anthem of Okinawa, although the band is from Yamanashi, in central Japan. A good doorway to the island's music before hearing it live.

Frequently asked questions

Okinawa: how do I get from Naha Airport to the center?

Naha Airport (OKA) is a few kilometers from the center, and the Yui Rail monorail leaves from the airport itself. The adult fare is 290 yen to Kenchomae (13 minutes), 320 to Makishi (16 minutes), and 360 to Shuri (27 minutes). The 24-hour (1,000 yen) and 48-hour (1,800 yen) QR tickets are valid from the time of purchase. The monorail accepts the OKICA card and IC cards from other regions of Japan, such as Suica.

Okinawa: do I need to rent a car, or can I do the itinerary by bus and monorail?

The monorail covers Naha and Shuri. Outside it, buses leave from the Naha terminal for almost the whole island, but departures are far apart away from the capital, with waits that can reach two hours. A rental car is the most practical way to see the south, the center, and the north. The rental agencies are outside the airport, and a company bus takes you to the lot, which can take half an hour. Traffic drives on the left, speed limits are usually between 40 and 60 km/h, and the south of the island gets congested. Anyone driving in Japan with a foreign license generally needs the international driving permit under the 1949 Geneva Convention, issued before the trip; some nationalities use an official translation instead. Check the rule for your country before booking.

Okinawa: how do I get to the Kerama Islands?

Boats leave from Tomari Port in Naha. The Queen Zamami high-speed boat departs from the north side of the port, which has its own ticket office next to the boarding area, and reaches Zamami in about 50 minutes; the Ferry Zamami leaves from the south side, next to the Tomarin terminal, and takes 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours. Reservations by phone open one month ahead and run until the day before, with no reservations on the day itself, and online they open 55 days ahead; the fare is paid on the day, at the ticket office, with the reservation number. In October 2026, the high-speed boat cost 3,950 yen one way and 7,510 round trip (adult), and the ferry 2,900 and 5,510, plus a 100-yen entry fee for the island. Schedules change by day and by month, and bad weather cancels the boats.

Okinawa: how many days should I stay?

I'd stay five days on the main island, and four is the minimum I'd defend. One day goes to Shuri and central Naha; another to the south, with the museums and memorials of the Battle of Okinawa and Sefa Utaki; a boat day to the Kerama Islands; and a full day by car to the north, with the Churaumi Aquarium, the village of Bise, and Nakijin Castle. The fifth day comes down from the north by Cape Manzamo and the castles of Katsuren and Nakagusuku to the late afternoon in Chatan. I'd sleep in Naha, near a monorail station, for the first three nights, because Tomari Port, the airport, and the exits to the south are a few minutes away, and I'd spend the night of the north day in Motobu or on the Onna coast, so as not to retrace the road at night. For Yanbaru and Cape Hedo, I'd add a sixth day, with a second night in the north.

Okinawa: when is the best time to go?

April, October, and November; the first half of May also works outside Golden Week, summer is the season for beaches and diving, with a chance of typhoons from June to September, and the rainy season usually runs from mid-May to the end of June.

Okinawa: how do I get to the Churaumi Aquarium?

The aquarium is in the Ocean Expo Park, in Motobu. From Naha Airport, next to the center, it is about 2 hours by car on the expressway, or 3 hours by express bus, such as lines 111 and 117 and the Yanbaru Express, and the park's parking is free. In the low season it is open from 8:30 to 18:30, with last entry at 17:30, and stays open later during holiday periods. The adult ticket costs 2,180 yen.

Okinawa: is it safe to swim in the sea?

From June to September 30, the prefecture keeps up a warning for the habu-kurage, a box jellyfish with strong venom: swim inside the nets, at beaches with lifeguards, cover your skin, and carry vinegar, which is the recommended first aid, without rubbing the affected area and seeking medical attention. At beaches with lifeguards, swimming is allowed inside the marked area and with a jellyfish net; in high seas, jellyfish can pass over the net. In an emergency at sea, call 118, the number of the Japan Coast Guard.

Other cities in the country

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  • Days
    3–5
    When
    Mar–Apr · Oct–Dec
    Per person/day
    Average 20,000–30,000 JPYMid-range · per person/day
    Cost scope

    Per person per day: accommodation, meals, urban transport, visits and a small allowance for extras. Flights excluded; larger purchases vary. The figures are the guide’s estimate.

  • Days
    3–4
    When
    Spring and autumn
    Per person/day
    Average 15,000–20,000 JPYMid-range · per person/day
    Cost scope

    Per person per day: accommodation, meals, urban transport, visits and a small allowance for extras. Flights excluded; larger purchases vary. Editorial estimate, not a quote.

  • Days
    2–3
    When
    Mar–Apr · Oct–Nov
    Per person/day
    Average 9,000–15,000 JPYMid-range · per person/day
    Cost scope

    Per person per day: accommodation, meals, urban transport, visits and a small allowance for extras. Flights excluded; larger purchases vary. Editorial estimate, not a quote.

  • Days
    2–3
    When
    Mar–Apr · Oct–Nov
    Per person/day
    Average 18,000–28,000 JPYMid-range · per person/day
    Cost scope

    Per person per day: accommodation, meals, urban transport, visits and a small allowance for extras. Flights excluded; larger purchases vary. Editorial estimate, not a quote.

  • Days
    2–3
    When
    Feb · Jun–Sep
    Per person/day
    Average 19,600 JPYMid-range · per person/day
    Cost scope

    Per person per day: accommodation, meals, urban transport, visits and a small allowance for extras. Flights excluded; larger purchases vary. Editorial estimate, not a quote.

Itineraries through here